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Post by moflint on Jun 21, 2017 17:45:22 GMT 7
I ask direction because pancake coil have polarity. And I wonder if earth magnetic will influence it. Tesla use it to gather energy too. Here is a picture of the coil I am using - it's about 130mm in diameter, awg 20 magnet wire. I hope you can see what direction it is wound from the picture. I attach the input to the outside of the coil, and draw off the output from the inside wire. Attachments:
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Post by Sucahyo on Jun 22, 2017 12:01:18 GMT 7
Here is a picture of the coil I am using - it's about 130mm in diameter, awg 20 magnet wire. I hope you can see what direction it is wound from the picture. I attach the input to the outside of the coil, and draw off the output from the inside wire. Thanks. Nice work. Mine was messy. I believe that viewer will get male energy (positive electrical polarity) from that coil. So the inner side is positive and the outer side is negative. Battery positive is male, battery negative is female. Sky is male, earth is female. I think you use the correct facing and correct energy gathering. I wonder if the charging speed will be worse if you use it upside down or switch the wire. I also wonder if the charging speed change if the inner wire go up first.
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Post by moflint on Jun 23, 2017 15:06:18 GMT 7
I wonder if the charging speed will be worse if you use it upside down or switch the wire. I also wonder if the charging speed change if the inner wire go up first. It does not seem to make any difference to charging speed whether inner wire or outer wire, or upside down. I am trying to understand resonance and how it functions in the stingo circuit. Is the potentiometer for tuning to create resonance in coil, or in LCR circuit in total (including load)? I always have zero resistance on the pot (unless using magnets to boost output) with my 12v 7ah batteries. How does a heavy load such as a big battery affect these small toroid resonance - is the coil big enough in fact to come into resonance when there are big batteries? Also of interest is how to best tune the coil - either with capacitor or feedback mechanism like antenna. How far has your research gone in this direction? Lot of questions - sorry. Mark
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Post by gaslan on Jun 27, 2017 13:28:17 GMT 7
Good job Mark,. I'm thinking to get a variable capacitor. Charging the Ni Cd battery, the last attempt I had 5.9 Khz on my multimeter, it last only 2 days with my razor, ( 3 attempts and no more than 2 days of use ) but when charging with the Bedini wheel 120/180 hz I had the opposite effect, the Ni Cd batteries last and the lead acid one ( two ) died. Is it the frequency the parameter to tune ? At first I could try a smaller capacitor to get a lower frequency and see what's happen. If the frequency affect the charging performance of different batteries, it's possible to see in this way, in case of positive test, the variable capacitor can be used.
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Post by moflint on Jun 27, 2017 14:31:37 GMT 7
Good job Mark,. I'm thinking to get a variable capacitor. Charging the Ni Cd battery, the last attempt I had 5.9 Khz on my multimeter, it last only 2 days with my razor, ( 3 attempts and no more than 2 days of use ) but when charging with the Bedini wheel 120/180 hz I had the opposite effect, the Ni Cd batteries last and the lead acid one ( two ) died. Is it the frequency the parameter to tune ? At first I could try a smaller capacitor to get a lower frequency and see what's happen. If the frequency affect the charging performance of different batteries, it's possible to see in this way, in case of positive test, the variable capacitor can be used. Hi Gaslan, There is more power produced when a coil is at it's resonant frequency, as in tank circuit or an LCR circuit. Each coil has a natural resonant frequency which is affected by C (tuning) and R (dampening) in the circuit. This is about as much as I know at the moment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RLC_circuit
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Post by Sucahyo on Jun 30, 2017 9:33:52 GMT 7
It does not seem to make any difference to charging speed whether inner wire or outer wire, or upside down. I am trying to understand resonance and how it functions in the stingo circuit. Is the potentiometer for tuning to create resonance in coil, or in LCR circuit in total (including load)? I always have zero resistance on the pot (unless using magnets to boost output) with my 12v 7ah batteries. How does a heavy load such as a big battery affect these small toroid resonance - is the coil big enough in fact to come into resonance when there are big batteries? Also of interest is how to best tune the coil - either with capacitor or feedback mechanism like antenna. How far has your research gone in this direction? Lot of questions - sorry. Mark Thanks, for trying. it seems the effect is not because of orgone energy then. Maybe because of the way the current move inside the coils. Potentiometer in the circuit only meant for controlling power. Resonant should be controlled by other resistor. Stingo will automatically produce higher output with lower output resistance. The suggestion from bedini is to have coil resistance match the battery resistance. But I don't see the difference in charging speed when I try to match them. To increase output power, I use antenna at positive output and 50 liter of water or so to negative output. Good job Mark,. I'm thinking to get a variable capacitor. Charging the Ni Cd battery, the last attempt I had 5.9 Khz on my multimeter, it last only 2 days with my razor, ( 3 attempts and no more than 2 days of use ) but when charging with the Bedini wheel 120/180 hz I had the opposite effect, the Ni Cd batteries last and the lead acid one ( two ) died. Is it the frequency the parameter to tune ? At first I could try a smaller capacitor to get a lower frequency and see what's happen. If the frequency affect the charging performance of different batteries, it's possible to see in this way, in case of positive test, the variable capacitor can be used. I wonder why your charger can not make the battery have last longer. What is the output current during batter charging? With stingo, frequency does not matter because stingo use voltage spike. The spike sharpness is more important. adding capacitor at the coil or transistor will actually dampen the spike so it may reduce the radiant. Using capacitor in paralel with the battery will convert the radiant into normal electricity. It may charge faster, but it also heat up the battery much faster / behave like ordinary charger. Researching the correct diode and transistor is more important. Diode can have poor output, I usually compare one another. Unfortunately diode availability differ from place to place. Even the same brand also different. Low power transistor seems to produce better spike, but they break easier. So, we have to find low power transistor with enough capability to withstand the spike. Which is why I use TIP31C for low power stingo / 12V charger, and TIP3055 for high voltage generator. 2N3055 is very very bad transistor choice for stingo.
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Post by gaslan on Jul 1, 2017 20:59:44 GMT 7
Good job Mark,. I'm thinking to get a variable capacitor. Charging the Ni Cd battery, the last attempt I had 5.9 Khz on my multimeter, it last only 2 days with my razor, ( 3 attempts and no more than 2 days of use ) but when charging with the Bedini wheel 120/180 hz I had the opposite effect, the Ni Cd batteries last and the lead acid one ( two ) died. Is it the frequency the parameter to tune ? At first I could try a smaller capacitor to get a lower frequency and see what's happen. If the frequency affect the charging performance of different batteries, it's possible to see in this way, in case of positive test, the variable capacitor can be used. Hi Gaslan, There is more power produced when a coil is at it's resonant frequency, as in tank circuit or an LCR circuit. Each coil has a natural resonant frequency which is affected by C (tuning) and R (dampening) in the circuit. This is about as much as I know at the moment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RLC_circuitThank you
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Post by gaslan on Jul 1, 2017 21:39:03 GMT 7
It does not seem to make any difference to charging speed whether inner wire or outer wire, or upside down. I am trying to understand resonance and how it functions in the stingo circuit. Is the potentiometer for tuning to create resonance in coil, or in LCR circuit in total (including load)? I always have zero resistance on the pot (unless using magnets to boost output) with my 12v 7ah batteries. How does a heavy load such as a big battery affect these small toroid resonance - is the coil big enough in fact to come into resonance when there are big batteries? Also of interest is how to best tune the coil - either with capacitor or feedback mechanism like antenna. How far has your research gone in this direction? Lot of questions - sorry. Mark Thanks, for trying. it seems the effect is not because of orgone energy then. Maybe because of the way the current move inside the coils. Potentiometer in the circuit only meant for controlling power. Resonant should be controlled by other resistor. Stingo will automatically produce higher output with lower output resistance. The suggestion from bedini is to have coil resistance match the battery resistance. But I don't see the difference in charging speed when I try to match them. To increase output power, I use antenna at positive output and 50 liter of water or so to negative output. Good job Mark,. I'm thinking to get a variable capacitor. Charging the Ni Cd battery, the last attempt I had 5.9 Khz on my multimeter, it last only 2 days with my razor, ( 3 attempts and no more than 2 days of use ) but when charging with the Bedini wheel 120/180 hz I had the opposite effect, the Ni Cd batteries last and the lead acid one ( two ) died. Is it the frequency the parameter to tune ? At first I could try a smaller capacitor to get a lower frequency and see what's happen. If the frequency affect the charging performance of different batteries, it's possible to see in this way, in case of positive test, the variable capacitor can be used. I wonder why your charger can not make the battery have last longer. What is the output current during batter charging? With stingo, frequency does not matter because stingo use voltage spike. The spike sharpness is more important. adding capacitor at the coil or transistor will actually dampen the spike so it may reduce the radiant. Using capacitor in paralel with the battery will convert the radiant into normal electricity. It may charge faster, but it also heat up the battery much faster / behave like ordinary charger. Researching the correct diode and transistor is more important. Diode can have poor output, I usually compare one another. Unfortunately diode availability differ from place to place. Even the same brand also different. Low power transistor seems to produce better spike, but they break easier. So, we have to find low power transistor with enough capability to withstand the spike. Which is why I use TIP31C for low power stingo / 12V charger, and TIP3055 for high voltage generator. 2N3055 is very very bad transistor choice for stingo. The stingo version is a monocoil and in my post of march the 5th can be seen. I didn't try without capacitor but batteries I charged never get hot nor even warm and lead one works very good. One diode 0,535 V another 0,537 V bd 241c and bd 242 c are equivalent to tip one. the toroid used is the one in the pic and you can see yellow the capacitor. Here the list of main components: Diodes 1n5804 Transistor bd241c bd242c Capacitor 1 uf 630 V Toroid inductance about 0,75 millihenry R 0,5 ohm NiCd battery charging data Current from transformer about 370 mA to battery about 250 mA
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Post by charger on Jul 2, 2017 17:42:34 GMT 7
Bang indikator baterai penuhnya yang di pakai jadi patokan itu voltase atau ampere nya? Masa bang masih belajar...
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 3, 2017 9:00:42 GMT 7
The stingo version is a monocoil and in my post of march the 5th can be seen. I didn't try without capacitor but batteries I charged never get hot nor even warm and lead one works very good. One diode 0,535 V another 0,537 V bd 241c and bd 242 c are equivalent to tip one. the toroid used is the one in the pic and you can see yellow the capacitor. Here the list of main components: Diodes 1n5804 Transistor bd241c bd242c Capacitor 1 uf 630 V Toroid inductance about 0,75 millihenry R 0,5 ohm NiCd battery charging data Current from transformer about 370 mA to battery about 250 mA Thanks. I still don't know why yours can not produce long lasting charge. How long the battery get charged at 250ma? That kind of current should be able to heat up battery in later stage of charging. The battery should become warm when they already full. We can also test the diode by measuring the output. If I remember correctly, there are some diode that actually reduce the output.
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 3, 2017 9:00:47 GMT 7
Bang indikator baterai penuhnya yang di pakai jadi patokan itu voltase atau ampere nya? Masa bang masih belajar... Cuma bisa pakai voltase. Batre makin penuh akan makin berkurang hambatannya, arus akan makin besar.
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Post by gaslan on Jul 7, 2017 13:45:33 GMT 7
The stingo version is a monocoil and in my post of march the 5th can be seen. I didn't try without capacitor but batteries I charged never get hot nor even warm and lead one works very good. One diode 0,535 V another 0,537 V bd 241c and bd 242 c are equivalent to tip one. the toroid used is the one in the pic and you can see yellow the capacitor. Here the list of main components: Diodes 1n5804 Transistor bd241c bd242c Capacitor 1 uf 630 V Toroid inductance about 0,75 millihenry R 0,5 ohm NiCd battery charging data Current from transformer about 370 mA to battery about 250 mA Thanks. I still don't know why yours can not produce long lasting charge. How long the battery get charged at 250ma? That kind of current should be able to heat up battery in later stage of charging. The battery should become warm when they already full. We can also test the diode by measuring the output. If I remember correctly, there are some diode that actually reduce the output. Only the NiCd of razor, as far as I tried other batteries different from the lead acid one don't keep the charge. It tooks about 3-4 minutes. the batteries always stay cool, like the lead one but this one keep the charge for a long time. The pics posted show that you use the board without ventronite just soldering components together. I don't have probably the right toroid, I tried tv transformer for example and I gain output current keeping the input stable. I use the diode bridge and I don't see it in yours maybe I have lot of diodes in the board and lower efficency.
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Post by Agus Setyotama on Jul 7, 2017 23:00:37 GMT 7
Maaf saya mau tanya apa perbedaan rangkaian stingo dengan Joule Thief ?? kalau JT kan DC to AC to step up
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 10, 2017 13:44:43 GMT 7
Thanks. I still don't know why yours can not produce long lasting charge. How long the battery get charged at 250ma? That kind of current should be able to heat up battery in later stage of charging. The battery should become warm when they already full. We can also test the diode by measuring the output. If I remember correctly, there are some diode that actually reduce the output. Only the NiCd of razor, as far as I tried other batteries different from the lead acid one don't keep the charge. It tooks about 3-4 minutes. the batteries always stay cool, like the lead one but this one keep the charge for a long time. The pics posted show that you use the board without ventronite just soldering components together. I don't have probably the right toroid, I tried tv transformer for example and I gain output current keeping the input stable. I use the diode bridge and I don't see it in yours maybe I have lot of diodes in the board and lower efficency. Ok. Thanks. I think you should try to charge it until it get as warm as our body (40 degree celcius). The reason I do not use board is because I read that Bob Boyce mention that his hex controller (the one that can self charge) need special board otherwise the energy will be lost. I always use special diode bridge for charge. I do not use it only for zapper or motor application
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 10, 2017 13:46:13 GMT 7
Maaf saya mau tanya apa perbedaan rangkaian stingo dengan Joule Thief ?? kalau JT kan DC to AC to step up Secara prinsip sama, yang beda cara mencapainya. Kalau dari efisiensi, stingo biasanya dua kali lebih efisien dari joule thief. Stingo juga cuma butuh satu kumparan, sementara joulrthief butuh dua kumparan. tanpa load stingo makin boros, sementara itu joule thief makin boros kalau ada loadnya.
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Post by gaslan on Jul 15, 2017 13:50:08 GMT 7
Ok. Thanks. I think you should try to charge it until it get as warm as our body (40 degree celcius).
The reason I do not use board is because I read that Bob Boyce mention that his hex controller (the one that can self charge) need special board otherwise the energy will be lost.
I always use special diode bridge for charge. I do not use it only for zapper or motor application
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Charging a battery should be checked the voltage not rising above a certain level, battery manuals say. Due to this reason charging the NiCd I was getting to the tension limit in very few minutes I stopped it but no energy stored in I tried charging longer and longer a 600 amp 2,4 V NiCd double AA battery. First time 5 minute second time 30 minutes and I have see that the battery last longer. Last charge the tension was 2,9 V before I stopped , the battery was still cool, and the energy stored much more than the first time. I used a 1 amp 6 volts transformer.
Cemenite in the car, + 10 % km/lt lower noise, more inertia, that mean, the car run longer without pushing the gas pedal, and just a light touch of the pedal is necessary to let the car run. With a full tank I have been running the second longest number of km since 2006. But in this case I have been driving in mountains, cities, short and medium distances, the longest distance was in occasion af a long single trip. A full tank miliage vary a lot according to the number of single trips driven, how many km each trip and can be from 11 /km/lt to 20,5 km/lt according to my tests since 2006. Cemenite at the first try offer an interesting performance, while orgonite didn't. This just the first tank but I'm rather used to check my car miliage. Good job Suchayo
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 19, 2017 13:02:45 GMT 7
Charging a battery should be checked the voltage not rising above a certain level, battery manuals say. Due to this reason charging the NiCd I was getting to the tension limit in very few minutes I stopped it but no energy stored in I tried charging longer and longer a 600 amp 2,4 V NiCd double AA battery. First time 5 minute second time 30 minutes and I have see that the battery last longer. Last charge the tension was 2,9 V before I stopped , the battery was still cool, and the energy stored much more than the first time. I used a 1 amp 6 volts transformer. Thanks for the information. With stingo the charging voltage can be a lot higher than usual. When I charge two nicad battery, I sometimes reach 3,4V. I did it many time without problem. But I do break a couple of battery because of overcharging. The battery become very very hot. When the battery is not hot, the battery can last years. I think the manual only meant for normal charger. The purpose is to prevent overcharging. Overcharging can damage the battery because of the heat and electrolysis / gassing. Cemenite in the car, + 10 % km/lt lower noise, more inertia, that mean, the car run longer without pushing the gas pedal, and just a light touch of the pedal is necessary to let the car run. With a full tank I have been running the second longest number of km since 2006. But in this case I have been driving in mountains, cities, short and medium distances, the longest distance was in occasion af a long single trip. A full tank miliage vary a lot according to the number of single trips driven, how many km each trip and can be from 11 /km/lt to 20,5 km/lt according to my tests since 2006. Cemenite at the first try offer an interesting performance, while orgonite didn't. This just the first tank but I'm rather used to check my car miliage. Good job Suchayo That is great result, thank for sharing. I am happy too. +10% is really a great result for a car. Is your car still use carburetor? Where do you place it?
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Post by gaslan on Jul 21, 2017 2:58:06 GMT 7
Charging a battery should be checked the voltage not rising above a certain level, battery manuals say. Due to this reason charging the NiCd I was getting to the tension limit in very few minutes I stopped it but no energy stored in I tried charging longer and longer a 600 amp 2,4 V NiCd double AA battery. First time 5 minute second time 30 minutes and I have see that the battery last longer. Last charge the tension was 2,9 V before I stopped , the battery was still cool, and the energy stored much more than the first time. I used a 1 amp 6 volts transformer. Thanks for the information. With stingo the charging voltage can be a lot higher than usual. When I charge two nicad battery, I sometimes reach 3,4V. I did it many time without problem. But I do break a couple of battery because of overcharging. The battery become very very hot. When the battery is not hot, the battery can last years. I think the manual only meant for normal charger. The purpose is to prevent overcharging. Overcharging can damage the battery because of the heat and electrolysis / gassing. --------------------------------------------------------- Yes I agree, getting to know something need time and many tests. Did you try other coils or transformer to avoid batteries heating ? Cemenite in the car, + 10 % km/lt lower noise, more inertia, that mean, the car run longer without pushing the gas pedal, and just a light touch of the pedal is necessary to let the car run. With a full tank I have been running the second longest number of km since 2006. But in this case I have been driving in mountains, cities, short and medium distances, the longest distance was in occasion af a long single trip. A full tank miliage vary a lot according to the number of single trips driven, how many km each trip and can be from 11 /km/lt to 20,5 km/lt according to my tests since 2006. Cemenite at the first try offer an interesting performance, while orgonite didn't. This just the first tank but I'm rather used to check my car miliage. Good job Suchayo That is great result, thank for sharing. I am happy too. +10% is really a great result for a car. Is your car still use carburetor? Where do you place it? -------------------------------------- Electronic ignition single point. At first full tank I put cemenite under the air box 10 cm of distance from the air collector of the motor. Now at the second full tank I put it the other side about 5 cm of distance.
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Post by Sucahyo on Jul 21, 2017 15:46:23 GMT 7
Did you try other coils or transformer to avoid batteries heating ? With stingo, I think battery heating up means the battery start to become full. With normal charger, battery start to heat up even before it is full. The heating depend on spike quality. Dull signal heat up the battery more. This depend on transistor / switching mechanism more. Where do you place it? -------------------------------------- Electronic ignition single point. At first full tank I put cemenite under the air box 10 cm of distance from the air collector of the motor. Now at the second full tank I put it the other side about 5 cm of distance. That is interesting. I usually suggest to place cemenite near the fuel tank. The best result seems to happen when we place cemenite made from small wire (network / 8 in 1 telephone wire) at the fuel line. and place cemenite made from bigger wire (1mm or 2.5mm electric wire / NYA) at the air filter / before air intake.
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agus
New Member
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Post by agus on Jul 30, 2017 23:04:48 GMT 7
Maaf masih pemula, saya coba pahami JT itu pakai trafo tegangan kalau stingo pakai trafo arus (current transformer).. Benar apa salah mr. sucahyo ??
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